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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: October 18th, 2023

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  • The other guy commenting is somewhat right, the user shouldn’t have bought this tool for DIY use, as most dealership software won’t work for DIY use because it is also a warranty tool, hence the need for a business license, the diagnostic software will record everything you do, upload a log file for the manufacturer to read to make sure they carry out the repairs correctly/services are inline with schedules, and they need that business license information so they know who to approve or deny a claim to. every manufacturer will have a software that does this and they shouldn’t be used for DIY use because it simply won’t work (unless there are cracked versions where people have remove that functionality, I believe there is software for Subaru and Toyota out there like this). There is other tools for the DIY use that are a fraction of the cost that does what you need, and most aren’t vehicle/brand specific, and good brands of OBD2 scanners will regularly pushout updates to cover more cars and more test functions over time. The issue mainly I see is manufacturers hide this information and unless you are well knowledged in the field or know a guy, the cheap and safe route is often so incredibly difficult to find and usually ends up in people confused and scared to work on their own cars, which sucks because the premise of all the hardware used in cars isn’t really that far from 50 years ago, software and 4-8km of wiring can scare people and the manufacturers want that because it scares people out of DIY fixes but still ticks the boxes of right to repair laws. (Sorry for the big comments, I can’t keep them small)


  • This isn’t a new thing. Almost every car that has an electrical park brake advises you to use software to change change out your rear brake pads, as when you release your Electric Park Brake (EPB), the EPB motor doesn’t wind back enough, to give you the space required to install new pads and/or rotors, it only winds back enough to release pressure off the piston pushing the pad, which this has been in production cars since 2001 (some cars have brake maintenance modes which can be activated without software, Mazda first comes to mind with this). This whole Hyundai/Kia deal reminds me of Volkswagen back when they were intoducting proprietary software for vehicle maintenance, which led to a guy getting mad and making his own software that does everything the factory software does for a fraction of the cost and arguably better (Rosstech/VCDS) which I feel will happen soon with Hyundai. But being mad just at just Hyundai for this is the wrong mindsent, almost every car manufacturer does this and for a long time, and needs to stop. Even for dealerships this is horrendous because it uses a always online software that if you live somewhere with bad internet or GPS connection, stops you from even just resetting the service interval, which as usual is explained as being a good thing for “safety reasons” by the manufacturer.



  • If by actually help you mean does it ever fix things? No, an OBD reader will never fix a problem, it is just a diagnostic tool, it helps locating a problem without having to essentially do a full body scan by hand, kinda as if you had a leak in a house, and instead of having to inspect every pipe in the house tearing down walls, you just use a tool that tells you “leak found, upstairs shower, hot side valve”, yes you still could have found the leak just by hand if you wanted, but it might have taken days or weeks, and tons of money replacing unnecessary pipes.

    Its good you have a shop that did the OBD readout and gave you suggestions for free, most shops around me you’ll be paying hundreds for that, but I agree it still suck regardless that you are down a path that is gonna cost thousands, for what it is worth, if you have an airbag/SRS problem, an OBD reader definitely wouldn’t help as anything SRS is always really expensive, usually not just a case of plug and play parts, even just a broken wire isn’t just a simple soldering job and hardware adaptions very much are vehicle specific and can be timely if calibration is necessary


  • And if you’re up to spending a little more, you can buy OBD readers that are manufacturer specific which will give you details on what is setting off a code. VWAG cars are hell, but if you have VCDS/Rosstech (or ODIS if you can get your hands on it) simple plug and scan will majority of the time give you the exact cause with an event history of the code and not just a vauge “Bank 1 lean” etc, and even if you don’t want to do the repairs, if you know what is broken, ordering the parts and giving to a shop ends up being much cheaper and quicker then the cost of them doing the diagnosis and repairs