I have a MIDI controller keyboard that I have cleaned in the past with disinfectant alcohol wipes, which I know is a bad idea because it degrades the rubber over time.

Well, the rubber on the pitch bend and modulation wheels has indeed degraded, and the surfaces texture is awful, uneven and sticky now. My fault… I know.

So does anyone know of any way to fix, or even improve, this kind of nasty rubber surface degradation once it occurs? Sanding? Applying oils? Is there any way I can even slightly restore these controls back to their original soft-touch rubbery glory?

  • Brum@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    For degraded rubberized surfaces on computer peripherals (I’m looking at you, Logitech) I now use WD40.

    I soak pretty much the entire device in it and leave it overnight in the open. Most of the WD40 will have evaporated, leaving behind a film of dissolved degraded rubber and other gunk. You then use alcohol-free wet wipes to rub all that off and leave the device to dry.

    I found that this approach requires less rubbing and scrubbing, useful for bigger batches. Don’t worry about the smell, it airs out in a couple of days.

    • WD40 evaporates?
      Anyway, my go-to is paper towels, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol.

      Alternatively, if it’s a flat surface I may just stick it over with some tape. The glue will make additional mess, but that’s a problem of future me, and at least I won’t have to care about it now.

      • gastroglizzy@piefed.social
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        3 days ago

        WD40 evaporates?

        Yes. WD-40 isn’t a lubricant. The “WD” stands for “Water Displacement” (the 40 means “40th formula”). It’s intended to be used on rusty parts to remove any moisture before adding a lubricant. It has a tiny amount of oil in it, which does provide some amount of lubrication after it’s applied, but come back in 30 minutes and it’s back to being squeaky again. Always spray some penetrating oil after.

      • lemmyman@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Wd40 has a small amount of oil dissolved in a large amount of volatile solvent.

        So most of it does evaporate, and OPs method cleans up residual oil

      • historicaldocuments@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        WD40 evaporates?

        A lot of compressed canned things are something suspended in a solvent, and when let out of the container the solvent evaporates leaving behind whatever stuff was dissolved in it. I can’t speak if it’s the solvent or something in the WD-40 that has the effect the previous poster is talking about.

  • tal@lemmy.today
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    3 days ago

    It may not be you.

    There’s some polymer substance that was used to create “rubberized” coatings on a lot of consumer electronics some years back that degrades to a sticky mess over time on its own. I had a Grundig G6 shortwave radio that did it badly, as well as some other devices.

    I don’t believe that you can “undegrade” it, but if it’s the same stuff, you can manage to remove it, just leave unrubberized plastic.

    I used isopropyl alcohol and a lot of elbow grease, which eventually works.

    This blog mentions it:

    https://swling.com/blog/2021/01/getting-the-grundig-g6-out-of-a-sticky-situation/

    They recommend “Purple Power”.

    Tip for non-USonians: what’s sold as “Purple Power” (and “Simple Green”, and several other frequently-recommended cleaners for this sort of thing) are not necessarily the same products around the world. For example, in the US “Purple Power” is an ethylene glycol based cleaner/degreaser; here in Aus, if you ask for “Purple Power” you’ll get a sodium hydroxide based degreaser.

    One will clean the gunk off your radio; the other will clean the gunk and most of the labelling off…

    These guys have some recommendations of their own:

    https://www.ifixit.com/News/93833/ask-ifixit-how-do-i-fix-sticky-plastics

      • mbp@lemmy.sdf.org
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        6 hours ago

        That shit is so cheap too, I keep that thang on me.

        Simple Green, Folex, and Dawn Power Wash (mix at home to save cash) are my go-to items

  • MrOtingocni@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    Depends on how much work you want to do.

    If you can get the pieces off you can remove the layer that is degrading, prep the plastic and use a spray on vinyl polymer to recoat it.

    Stuff like spray on ‘electrical tape’ and plastidip can be found in most hardware stores for pretty cheap. If you’re serious, they make a type of primer specifically for plastic, typically used for prepping before painting, but it serves to let the spray adhere to the plastic.

  • i_stole_ur_taco@lemmy.ca
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    3 days ago

    Last time I looked into this the answer was no - it’s a permanent chemical change you can’t heal or stop or cover.

    The best thing I’ve found was to keep using alcohol wipes to scrape away the gooey top surface every once in a while. ☹️

    • schipelblorp@sh.itjust.works
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      3 days ago

      The best thing I’ve found was to keep using alcohol wipes to scrape away the gooey top surface every once in a while.

      This reminds me of my body’s strategy of eating as much and as many foods as it can until my stomach feels better.

  • Zier@fedia.io
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    3 days ago

    I had a portable HDD, Pininfarina, that degraded. That was the last time I bought anything with that texture.

  • Crescent@fedinsfw.app
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    3 days ago

    It depends, I had some success with using alcohol and talcum powder afterwards. (yes, really)

  • snoons@lemmy.ca
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    3 days ago

    Not sure if it’s feasible with tiny textured things, but I covered my degrading bicycle handles with gaffing tape. Been good for almost three years now.

    But yeah I always clean things with soap and water or all purpose spray from local bulk store. Alcohol is often to stronk for most things in the normal house. Also as others have said, it might not even be the alcohol, “rubber” surfaces often deglade like that no matter what you do.

  • BrianTheeBiscuiteer@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    It’s not a long-term solution but for things like this I add a light dusting of cornstarch. It gives the plastic a powdery texture instead but way more pleasant than a sticky one.

  • RedEye FlightControl@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    When the rubberized coating degrades off of something like a mouse, I’ll use a scouring pad and alcohol to remove the rest of it. It usually leaves it a standard plastic finish. The material is breaking down, and will continue to do so, so I just remove it.

  • Hello_there@fedia.io
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    3 days ago

    If it is the soft-touch plastic, the answer is to use alcohol and just remove it. The hard plastics stand up over time but the soft plastics turn into a gummy mess. A common one is headphones.

  • jqubed@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    The explanation I’ve seen before is these are usually a soft-touch plastic and they’re made “soft-touch” by adding oils to the plastic, but they leach out over time putting a sticky layer on the now-harder plastic. The rubbing alcohol can help clean away the oil and stickiness but the plastic won’t be soft anymore.

  • pwalshj@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    I’ve had excellent results with Fantastik. I was told it’s original intent was for belts and pucks on analog tape machines and was sold under the name “Audiosol”.

  • Boozilla@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    I recently saw somewhere that gasoline can help. Might be total bullshit, or depend on the exact material. Might be worth trying on a very small area of the rubber surface. Outside in the shade. Gas fumes are bad.