• 5 Posts
  • 14 Comments
Joined 4 months ago
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Cake day: April 27th, 2026

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  • way more modern CPU and chipset resulting in better power management; also faster and better graphics, but that’s not important for the use case. an undervolted i5 5250u can run with wifi and lit screen in the sub-5W range, netting you 10ish hours of continuous light use out of a decent battery and days of standby (that you can turn into weeks if you implement suspend-then-hibernate). you could make an earilier model work but the price difference should be in the $20 range, so why bother?

    edit: microSD, yeah, I guess you can boot off them but why would you want the flaky and slow mess when you got a perfectly fine PCI-E SSD?


  • macbook air 11 2015 8gb version. just this one and no other, no 13, no 2013, no 4 gb versions, etc.

    very linux friendly (once you sort out broadcom wifi drivers), sips power, tolerates undervolt. it’s useless to the apple crowd as it don’t got support for latest OS so it can be had for cheap, even more so if you wanna buy busted units and frankenstein together a new one. also, wide cross-gen parts compatibility. aliexpress got $5 USB-C to Magsafe2 adapter so you don’t gotta haul the charger around.

    don’t get the 12" ones, unless they’re close to free. spectacular screen, but the keyboard is atrocious and prone to die, with no option of replacing it, SSD is integrated so can’t get the data off it if something dies, fragile display connection, it’s a shit-show.







  • all aftermarket batteries are shit. one of the manifestations of shittyness is that once they’re below a certain threshold, the battery controller won’t charge them no more. you’re advised to never let 'em drop below 20% of capacity. or else.

    if returning the things is not an option, you can open them up, find where the cells are connected to the controller and charge them there with an external PSU of commensurate voltage; i.e. if the battery is rated at 12V, you charge em with 12V and say 0.5A whilst constantly monitoring the battery’s voltage with an instrument. shouldn’t take long, maybe coupla minutes. once it reaches 10-11V, disconnect, plug in to the laptop and it should start charging.

    here’s me charging a “dead” macbook battery; worked just fine afterwards.

    https://defcon.social/@yuman/116680475876205754



  • you can rest assured I know the difference; it was completely useless, I didn’t go “problem solved, let’s nuke the fucker”. I had posts that received a barrage of downvotes and I let 'em be. had posts where the conclusion differed from what was originally intended and I’d let them be as there was value in the resolution. this was none of them things, no chance anyone would find this useful.



  • I deleted my post here specifically. it was completely useless to anyone else and 0 chance anyone could find any part of it useful.

    I’ve done that a coupla times when I determine that the post itself and the replies provide no value to anyone whatsoever.

    I wouldn’t think of removing a post otherwise, if I made an error in OP or came off stupid or sumsuch, I’d edit it for posterity; even when it’s a pile-on downvote bonanza, I wouldn’t think of touching it.